![]() "All I can say is that everything we do here is based in truth: authentic. "When they come to a house they want to know what the house stands for - rightly so - before they buy into it," Galliano said of the new generations. In that sense, Mutiny isn't some marketing roll-out, but a distillation of all the things his Maison stands for: the old ideals of an haute couture house (to which fragrances like these were key) blended with the mutiny of a new generation. Galliano uses the word "parfum" as a metaphor for the core of creation. These are the values Galliano has condensed into Mutiny, the powerful tuberose-based essence of which filled the Grand Palais on Wednesday morning like a thick cloud of glamour. "Who wrote that book, who wrote the rules? I wasn't involved with it." That's why now when I see such self-expression it's a joy for me and I positively encourage it. So of course I was hiding things and wasn't really being true to myself or being authentic. "It meant so much for me to be accepted, to have friends. Different qualities of tuberose have been positioned in the top, heart and bass notes of the fragrance to uncover the true flower. The Tuberose has been deconstructed by master perfumer, Dominique Ropion. So I have the greatest admiration." He talked about growing up in South London in the 1970s, and about finding a creative sanctuary from societal norms at Central Saint Martins where he could finally be himself. Mutiny is a daring, oriental floral perfume, combining deconstructed Tuberose with a warm Leather accord. ![]() “Their being who they really are, I find really inspiring because for so long I couldn't be who I wanted to be. “Conversation, energy levels, their fearlessness,” he said if his stagieres. Read more: Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2019 Ready-To-WearĪs the emerging designers of London will tell you time and again, Galliano's shows for his eponymous label and under Dior over the past decades served as their biggest inspiration growing up: theatres of social defiance, political provocation, and the kind of creativity that could only come from a person to whom creating is the same as breathing. He rejoices in the self-expressionist freedom of a generation he in many ways helped pave the way for. Compelled by the millennial and Z generations to which they belong, Galliano has been engaging in conversations with the stagieres, who intern with him at Maison Margiela, trying to understand the way they see the world. They included Teddy Quinlivan, Sasha Lane, Willow Smith, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Princess Nokia and Molly Bair all of whom have battled with society's norms and restrictions on gender and body identities. Specifically, he wanted to highlight the evolution currently surrounding the acceptance of non-conformist gender roles, an ethos reflected in his choice of mutinists, the ambassadors for the fragrance, who appeared in videos screened at the show, reflecting on their personal societal mutinies.
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